Perhaps these websites could have pointed to Ruteng, in Central Flores:
Because in 2003, in a small village called Liang Bua about 15 km north of Ruteng, an international team of archaeologists started digging in a nearby cave.
Archaeologists at work in Liang Bua
There, they discovered a female skeleton, measuring about one metre tall, and with a brain about half the size of a modern human's. It was called "homo floresiensis", a.k.a. the "Flores hobbit".
Alas, poor Yunita! I knew her well...
Previously, there had been reports and even a National Geographic show about a similar species in Sumatra known locally as "orang pendek" (little guy or ape-man):
But this was the first discovery of a skeleton, which you can view here.
Ever since, various scientists have argued over whether it was a healthy ancestor - as the archaeological team believes - or a diseased modern human - as some others believe. You can read more about the Flores Hobbit here, and a recent development here. But for this posting, I will focus here on the tourist angle, and how to get there.
Getting there is easier than it used to be.
If you're keen to see just this site over a weekend, you can fly to Ruteng direct. There are flights on TransNusa from Kupang, with connections on Mandala Air to Surabaya and Jakarta. Or, you can go from Kupang to Denpasar (Bali) on Garuda or Merpati, though the connection time may be poor and/or require an overnight stay.
However, most people fly to Maumere (East Flores) or Labuanbajo (West Flores) to arrange transport - usually renting a car with driver - for a one week trans-island trip that takes in a few other sights along the way, like Komodo Dragons or the multi-hued crater lakes of Mt Kelimutu. If you fly to these larger airports, you have a greater choice of airlines; those above, plus Merpati or Pelita Air.
If you need help booking a flight there, you can use our domestic flight booking service.
Unlike what the current Lonely Planet guide says, the road there is newly asphalted. Even better, unlike most of the roads in Flores, it isn't particularly windy or bumpy. However, as there are no street signs or maps, you may need to stop a few times to ask for directions, so you will either need to speak some Indonesian or bring a local guide (who can ideally speak the local Manggarai language).
You know you are getting close when you see the "Welcome to Liang Bua" sign:
Some of the welcoming residents of Liang Bua
Park nearby and ask the nearest person to see the cave's caretaker. If he's not available, he will send a self-appointed deputy who will open up the cave - there is a protective fence around it - for a nominal fee of Rp20 000. You then just sign the guestbook and take a look/climb around for as long as you want. You can use the cave picture above to work out where the hobbit's skeleton was, as unlike previously it is no longer marked by an arrow. There are a few tell-tale signs on the cave floor, too.
| | |
No comments:
Post a Comment